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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.